About Naomi Figueroa Photography

Traveling. Farmer‘s markets. Changing of seasons. Latin America. Cooking. The color blue (definitely not pink). Maine. Fresh fruits and veggies. Photography. Big dogs (if you‘re going to be a dog, be a DOG). Writing. The smell of pine trees. Jesus. Teenagers. Speaking Spanish (or trying, at least). Learning. Fair trade coffee. Dancing salsa with my husband. Nature. Family.

Just a few snippets of my life, but it all comes out in my photography because it is part of who I am. The why of everything I do is to bring glory to God. He is the ultimate Creative and the reason that we have this wonderful gift of being able to create, whether our medium is art or language or technology or music.

I‘m so glad you stopped by my blogsite. I hope you‘ll enjoy exploring a bit. Leave some love in the comments, or send me a note on the contact page! :D

Archive: ‘Photo Tips--Light’



Favorites

Saturday, August 6th, 2011

As a little random post, I thought I’d share a few of my favorite blogs and websites for learning. I love the photogs out there who are willing to teach and share so that others can learn, and so I thought I’d pass a few of them along to you. I’m always an open book as well and willing to teach with whatever knowledge I’ve gleaned thus far in my learning journey. :)

Jasmine Star–What can I say about Jasmine? She has the biggest heart and loves to share and teach whatever she can. She’s kind of a big deal in the wedding industry, yet she takes time to answer questions from readers, meet and greet after a speaking engagement, and continually give back to other photographers.

Melissa Jill–I just recently came across Melissa’s blog, and the other day I was just poring over her posts for photographers. Lots of great stuff! She has a whole series on flash (in the context of wedding photography), so I’ve been learning a ton.

RGBeki–Beki is a photographer friend of mine who started this wonderful blog solely dedicated to teaching on different photography topics. She doesn’t claim to know it all, but she willingly shares all that she does. [But I'll vouch that she knows a whole lot!] She has quite a variety of topics and resources, so I definitely recommend checking it out.

Digital Photography School–DPS has quite a lot of different articles and topics, as well as an active forum. This is a great site if you’re just starting out with photography, or even if you’ve been going at it for some time. The forum is extensive, and I’ve enjoyed getting feedback, advice, and sharing thoughts with other photographers.

Jamie Delaine–Oh, I just love reading Jamie’s blog. Her writing is fresh and from her heart, and I just totally dig her style. She has a beautiful spirit, and her words are encouraging, uplifting, and inspiring.

In Focus–One of my deep loves is travel photography and photojournalism. This site is where it’s at. It completely captivated me with its coverage of the earthquakes and aftermath in Japan. I was drawn into the stories and the lives of the people of Japan through these heartbreaking and breathtaking photographs. Photos that tell stories of humans around the world are the ones that just leave me speechless with their beauty.

Strobist–If you’re wanting to dig into the topic of flash photography, this is where it’s at. Anywhere and everywhere you go, you’ll see people recommending this blog. You can start with Lighting 101 and Lighting 102…those sections are quite hefty and ones I still need to get all the way through.

SLR Lounge–This is quite a wonderful site on a variety of things, but particularly if you’re looking to learn anything and everything about Lightroom. They have dozens of fantastic tutorial videos on working in LR, and I’m still working my way through them. Definitely a useful resource!

I hope you found at least 1 site that you’ll find useful or enjoyable! Happy Weekend!

1 Simple Tip to Improve Back Lit Portraits

Friday, February 25th, 2011

I love those moments when head knowledge becomes working knowledge, and something clicks so much that you can almost hear it. Oh, learning is a wonderful process!

So, here it is…I love backlighting, and I’ve been practicing using it more over the past year or so. But one of the problems I was having was shooting in strong or somewhat strong sunlight–there was often a lot of hazy light filtering in between the camera and the subject…some people like that look. It can be nice when coupled with sun flare, but there are times when I want the dramatic backlit portrait to be crisp with clean colors. I was really just shooting in the dark (yes, play on words totally intended…i look for those cheesy opportunities whenever possible) until I read through Jasmine Star’s post on her workshop in January. She had a “behind the scenes” shot of her and the other photogs shooting the models with the “really high budget and classy technique” she taught everyone.

I read the blog post and kept that little nugget in my back pocket until I had a chance to use it. And here’s the difference it made:

So here’s the basic rundown: In the first shot, I used spot metering to get a reading from her face, then set my camera on manual to f/2.5, 1/250 sec, ISO 100 (50mm lens). I kept the settings the same for the second shot, but simply put my left hand up in the air to basically create a small spot of shade for my camera (check the link to Jasmine’s post for a visual–it’s about halfway down). I edited them only slightly (contrast, exposure, and vignette) but applied the same settings to both.

The picture is totally not perfect (there is a stray ray of light that may have crept in through my fingers), but I’m so excited to practice it some more. I hope you’ll be encouraged to experiment a little with backlighting–it’s a beautiful way to add a little spice to your portraits.

*UPDATE 10/18/11* Just thought I’d add a couple of other great options to make this trick work. Basically, you want to make sure your lens is in the shade. So you can position yourself in the shade if there is any to be found. Or, you can have an assistant hold something up that is large enough to create the shade needed (the black side of a 5-in-1 reflector works great). Or you can also use a lens hood (pros: leave it attached and you have shade for your lens as well as protection, can use it when you’re constantly moving while shooting, such as at an outdoor wedding; cons: different hoods for different lenses, may cost you extra if it doesn’t come with your lens).

There are lots of options, but the idea is the same: get your lens in the shade! :) Whether you step into the shade or create it with a lens hood, another object, or your own hand, it is a very simple concept that will help you get gorgeous contrast in back lit portraits.

Why You Are Smarter Than Your Camera and What To Do About It

Monday, July 5th, 2010

It’s that mysterious plus/minus button on your camera. It sounds so technical–exposure compensation. Do you ignore it because you think you’ll never understand it? Or have you tried to use it at times? Well, I’ll be honest…even though I knew what it was for, I hadn’t used it much until I started my Project 365. But now that I’ve been taking a picture every day, in a variety of situations, I’ve come to see the usefulness of this little button.

So, here’s a basic rundown of how your camera works. It looks at all the light in your scene and tries to render things to be a midtone (as in, not too bright and not too dark–right in the middle). So, let’s say you’re in the shade of a big oak tree on a sunny day (so there’s still plenty of light, even in the shade), and you take a picture of your friend. If the lighting is nice and even (there aren’t any bright spots in your background), then your picture should come out pretty nicely. No real dark spots, no super bright spots. That’s because all the information in your scene is pretty much a midtone already. It’s not bright white and it’s not dark black.

*Pretty standard…even, soft lighting–great for portraits.*

So what happens when you’re at the beach, or surrounded by the bright white snow in the winter, and you want to take another picture of your friend? Let’s think about what we just said about how your camera sees things. It sees a very bright scene, and it wants to make it a midtone. So, I point my camera to the very bright scene, and what comes out is ashy, gray snow…or a dull shot of the sandy beach.

*Yuck.*

And this, my friends, is where the exposure compensation comes in. In this bright scene, your camera wants to render everything midtone, so it won’t make everything as bright as you see it. You need to tell it to overexpose. Press your little plus/minus, and you should see a scale. Yours should be set right in the middle, at 0. You can move it up or down, usually in increments of 1/3.  For a bright day with snow or a beach, I’d probably start with +1 (on my camera–you’ll need to experiment).

*Since I didn’t use exposure compensation in camera, I had to adjust this shot in photoshop. Takes more time, and I believe you should strive to get it right in camera, and photoshop is used for enhancing.*

*The majority of this shot is very bright. If I had just let my camera do the thinking, the snow and sky would have been a dull midtone, and my subject would have been pretty dark (since the light is behind her). Instead, I told my camera that it needed to overexpose so that it would show how things really looked.*

How about a scene that is mostly dark? Let’s say I’m taking a shot of my black lab, Sabana. I should set my camera to underexpose, so that it doesn’t try to lighten her up too much. So I press my exposure compensation button and go to -2/3.

*Even though the actual flowers were in pretty bright light, the ground was all in shadows, so I needed to underexpose this shot, probably about -1/3 or -2/3. If I hadn’t, my camera would have rendered the ground a little too bright, and therefore the flowers would have come out brighter as well. Since the flowers were the most important part for me, I had to make sure the background didn’t mess things up.*

Once you start to experiment, you’ll learn more about how much to compensate depending on your situation. You have to determine how bright something is, as well as how much of your shot it is taking up. As you learn, make sure you don’t make the final judgment call until you check out the results on your computer–the LCD is often too small or not in the best lighting to really see which picture comes out the best.

Assignment: Find a white wall that you can take a picture of and have it completely fill up your frame. Take a shot or two first, then set your exposure compensation to +1. Take a look and see if it came out bright white enough (as best as you can tell on your LCD), and play around with your exposure compensation a little more. Try increasing it if you think the wall needs to be brighter, or decreasing it if you think it came out too bright.

You can do the same with a black or very dark wall, but just use the opposite settings (-1 EV). When you upload the pictures to the computer, you can see which one rendered the wall as bright or as dark as it really was to your eye.

Good luck!

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